BMX and MTB easy, and fast learn tricks! Monday, October 25, 2010

Some trick that are easy to learn, just for BMX or MTB..PLEACE SUBSCRIBE, COMMENT, AND ADD ME AS FRIEND! SO YOU CAN KNOW WHEN I ADD MORE VIDEOS!! PLZ!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER58KwbvsJ8&hl=en

Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Saturday, October 23, 2010

Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Review

I ride light freeride (so far no bigger than 4 ft drops) so I climb to the top and then ride to the bottom, rinse and repeat. This bike does it for me. I threw a shorter stem on mine and I use less than recommended sag, put a chain guide and bash guard on it, and it handles everything the local trails have to offer. I also did some lift access at a nearby resort. It handled it beautifully. I also ride xc with a local group sometimes, riding 15 miles or more and it is an alright performer in that department. If I was riding more xc I'd put my old stem back on and start buying lighter parts to swap out (wheels and tires), or I'd just shop for a 29er.
If you want to ride a bit more aggressively I would recommend a longer travel fork with the 35-36mm stanchions.
Also the rear hub is not impressive stock. Expect it to last through no more than 1.5 seasons of light freeride use intact. It develops play quickly which you can correct with a pair of cone wrenches but I'd rather not have to do that once a week so I swapped it out after only a month for that reason.

For the cost it is a wonderful bike that is part of diamondback's big comeback. The 2010 frame is stiff and strong. The stock suspension is worth half of the bike's price alone.
Buy and love it.

Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Feature

• Men's full-suspension mountain bike with 6-inch all-mountain aluminum frame
• Knuckle Box suspension system makes bike feel lighter, smoother, and more maneuverable
• Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic brakes; 32H Sun Equalizer rims
• SRAM X-7 9-speed trigger shifter; WTB Prowler MX/Stout 2.3 tires
• Comes in 15.5-, 17-, 19-, and 21-inch sizes; WTB Pure V Sport saddle

Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Overview

The Mission 2 is built up using the same revolutionary 6” all-mountain frame and many of the parts found on the top of the line Mission 3. No single ring / two speed transmission, but the Mission 2 is a very nice bike.

Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Specifications

Since its introduction in 2007, the all-mountain Diamondback Mission has become the hands-down favorite of some of the most discriminating riders in the world. The Mission put the "all" in "all-mountain" and the "mountain" back in "mountain bike," leaving riders to wonder where they couldn't ride it. Diamondback continued to refine the Mission design in 2009 with the release of the Mission 2, which is built up using the same revolutionary 6-inch all-mountain frame found on its two siblings (the Mission 1 and 3), but offers several upgrades over the Mission 1. The Mission 2 includes such improvements as a Fox Float R 150mm Air fork with a 15mm thru axle, SRAM X.7 trigger shifters, and Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic disc brakes. Other features include a Knuckle Box rear suspension, a Truvativ Fire-X crankset, Sun Equalizer double-wall disc rims, WTB Prowler MX/Stout folding tires, and a WTB Pure V Sport saddle.

Knuckle Box Suspension System
All the scientific reasoning and engineering jargon in the world won't help you understand how the Knuckle Box suspension system performs. To truly appreciate how the system works, you really need to ride one. However, all bikes with Knuckle Box systems do share some common traits. The first is an optimized wheel rate, the parameter that defines what the suspension will feel like when riding. The Knuckle Box is shaped in such a way that the wheel rate starts off linear and finishes slightly progressive. This results in great small bump compliance, more perceived travel, and great bottom-out protection. Riders will also enjoy an optimized axle path--the parameter that defines your pedal feedback. By manipulating the pivot locations of the Knuckle Box system, Diamondback has come up with a design that produces very low chain-growth values, so you barely feel any pedal feedback at all. Finally, the Knuckle Box offers a low center of gravity. With most of the mass concentrated low in the frame, the bike feels lighter and more balanced, and maneuvers better than other mountain bikes.

The Mission 2's Knuckle Box suspension system helps the bike feel light, smooth, and maneuverable.

Specifications:

• Sizes: Small (15.5 inches), medium (17 inches), large (19 inches), and extra-large (21 inches)
• Frame: Mission all-mountain 6-inch aluminum with hooded hydroformed top tube, butted/formed down tube/seatstays, under-arch seatstay bridge, Knuckle Box technology, ISCG, Hammerschmidt readyÿ
• Fork: Fox Float R Air, 150mm travel, open bath, with exterior rebound adjust , butted alloy steerer, 32mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, with 15mm thru axleÿ
• Rear shock: Fox Float RP2 200 x 51mm Air with rebound adjust 2
• Cranks: Truvativ Fire X Giga X Pipe with AL-7075 aluminum outer ring, 22/32/44t ÿ
• Bottom bracket: Truvativ Giga X Pipe outboard sealed cartridge
• Front derailleur: Shimano Deore dual pull, top swing
• Rear derailleur: SRAM X-9
• Shifter: SRAM X-7 9-speed trigger
• Brake levers: Hayes Stroker Trail with reach adjust
• Brakes: Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic V7" (front), V6" (rear) rotors
• Gear: SRAM PG-950 9-speed cassette (11-34t)
• Rims: 32H Sun Equalizer with eyelets
• Tires: WTB Prowler MX 2.3 (front), Stout 2.3 (rear), folding
• Pedals: DB Sound alloy with molded traction pins
• Handlebar: Easton EA50 MidRise, 31.8mm
• Stem: Easton EA50, 31.8mm
• Seatpost: Easton EA50 double-bolt clamp, 30.9mm
• Seat: WTB Pure V Sport
• Headset: Zero Stack 1-1/8 inch ACB with deep alloy cups
• Chain: Zero Stack 1-1/8 inch ACB with deep alloy cups
• Hubset: 32H Neau Naim alloy sealed bearing disc with 15mm thru axle (front), 32H alloy disc cassette with CNC disc mountÿ(rear)
• Spokes: Black 14g stainless steel
• Grips: DB Brics 130mm, D2 Kraton
• Extras: DB key chain, Chainstay protector, water bottle mounts, clear coat, owner's manual

Mission 2 Bike Geometry
Size	Small	Medium	Large	Extra-large
Seat tube length	15.5 inches	17 inches	19 inches	21 inches
Standover height	29 inches	29.5 inches	29.5 inches	30 inches
Top tube length	22 inches	23 inches	24 inches	25 inches
Head tube length	120mm	130mm	145mm	145mm
Head angle	68 degrees	68 degrees	68 degrees	68 degrees
Seat angle	72 degrees	72 degrees	72 degrees	72 degrees
Wheel base	1,087mm	1,109mm	1,140mm	1,172mm
Chainstay length	440mm	440mm	440mm	440mm
Fork offset	42mm	42mm	42mm	42mm
BB height	348mm	348mm	348mm	348mm
Stem length	90mm	90mm	100mm	100mm
Handlebar width	680mm	680mm	680mm	680mm
Crank length	170mm	175mm	175mm	175mm
Seat post length	300mm	300mm	300mm	300mm

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Oct 23, 2010 08:24:05

Fortune Aug7 2010 Friday, October 15, 2010

jim riding at Camp Fortune



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcqBvt3mLqc&hl=en

Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Friday, October 8, 2010

Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Review

I got this bike back in early winter. The "manual" that comes with it is nearly useless and contains little, if any model-specific info. Some assembly is required (front wheel, handlebars, pedals) so if you are not comfortable doing mechanical work on bicycles call a friend who is, or take it to a neighborhood bicycle shop. The linear-pull brakes will also need some adjustment.

I assembled the bike and waited for warmer weather. Spring brought riding weather and out I went. Nice ride. No, it's not a 00. mountain bike, but if you don't need cutting edge stuff you'll be just as happy as the guy on the 00. bike. This is a very good value for the price. Previously I only had 10-speed racers but always wanted to try a mountain bike. After 15 years without a bicycle ride (yeah, I'm kinda old, switched to motorcycles for a dozen years or so) I took the plunge with this model. I am 5ft-9in tall and this bike fits me just fine. It's not as light as the more expensive bikes but it's not too heavy either (frame is aluminum). The swing-arm pivot joint is suspiciously large, perhaps to overcome a design weakness, but reassuringly strong-looking. At first I thought I would need a more comfortable seat but tilting it one click forward and raising it a bit did the trick. I can live with it for now. Adjust the seat post so that your knee is almost (but not quite) straight when the pedal is at the bottom of your stroke and the seat should be OK. I still may try a more comfy seat, some day.

The wheels on my bike were not quite true, and the linear-pull brakes wanted more advanced tweaking than I was comfortable doing (the return springs needed to be hand-bent for more tension), so I took mine to the local bicycle shop. Spokes were tensioned, wheels trued (tuned to spin perfectly straight, no wobble), and he adjusted the brakes to near perfection while giving the whole thing the once-over. . well spent.

On the road I was smiling. The suspension works pretty well and the bike shifts very nicely with no additional adjustments needed. Twist-click-shift. Brakes are more than adequate when properly adjusted. On pavement the knobby tires will sing to you at full speed and talk to you at slower speeds. If you go off road the knobbies will be welcome but if you ride only on pavement you might be happier with smoother tread tires.

I am delighted with the ability to go off-road and ride over most terrain, it's a blast. And I can now laugh at curbs, potholes, and pebbles that used to make me tremble with fear when riding a 10-speed racer with its skinny, vulnerable tires. I never dreamed of riding a 10-speed racer in the woods but now I look for trails to ride on off road, and this bike handles that just fine.

The poor manual is no biggie really. Even a good one would not help much more, really, since even a good one wouldn't cover everything in detail. Bikes are pretty generic in nature. If you want to do your own maintenance then buy a bicycle book with diagrams in it. A chain is a chain, and there are only a few different types of brakes and shifters. The book will show you how to do everything, but still have an expert tune your wheels for you. It probably will only have to be done once so why bother learning how?

If you want a mountain bike, but do not want the cheap kind (kid's bike, one-piece crank, cheap brakes) or the high-end (read: really expensive) kind, I can recommend this Kent Trail Machine model. I like mine a lot.

Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Feature

• Mountain bike with all aluminum slingshot frame
• Equipped with both front and rear suspension for a smooth ride
• Features 21-speed Shimano gearing
• Alloy quick release seat pin for fit adjustments
• All alloy V brakes, rims, and A stem head

Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Overview

Mens Trail Machine 26" 21 speed Shimano bike ~ For any service questions contact Kent at 1-800-451-KENT (5368) EST., for replacement parts, repair kits, tools and warranty information, (or) www.services@kentbicycles.com

Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Specifications

Built for trail riding, the Kent 26-inch Trail Machine mountain bike combines high-performance features with an affordable price. The Trail Machine is equipped with a full-suspension aluminum slingshot frame, with individual front and rear suspension systems that absorb shock and create a smooth ride regardless of the terrain. The bike also shifts smoothly from low to high thanks to the 21-speed twist shifters and the Shimano rear derailleur. Other features include alloy V-brakes, an alloy quick-release seat pin for easy adjustments, 36-hold alloy rims, and a stem head.

About Kent Bicycles
A family owned company, Kent Bicycles dates back to the early 1900s, when the current president's grandfather immigrated to the U.S. and got a job working for the owner of a bike shop in New York. In 1909, he opened his own bike shop on the Lower East Side. This small bike shop led to a larger store in New Jersey, where his son developed his own passion for the business. In 1947, the son was inspired to start his own company, Philkam Cycle, supplying bikes and parts to stores all over the eastern United States. In 1958, the company changed its name to Kent International and has been supplying Kent products to fun-loving parents and their children ever since.

Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide
Finding the Right Bike
To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:

The Right Ride
In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:

• Road and Racing Bikes: As a general rule, road and racing bikes are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels, and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain.
• Mountain Bikes: With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing, and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine.
• Comfort/Cruiser Bikes: For tooling around on bike paths or light trails or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family.

The Right Price
A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.

• Entry level: You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use.
• Mid-range: Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the sweet spot. Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension.
• High end: Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action.

The Right Size
Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:

• Stand-over Height: To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want 3 to 5 inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between 1 and 1 inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have 2 to 4 inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height.
• Top Tube Length: You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract 6 inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about 2 inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit.
• Bikes for Women: Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube. Many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance.

The Right Accessories
When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:

• Helmet (this is a must!)
• Seat pack
• Lock
• Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages
• Spare tubes
• Portable bike pump
• Gloves

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Oct 08, 2010 23:00:21

Mountain Bike Clipless Tips

Why ride clipless Mountain pedals? Clipless pedals I believe are one of the greatest additions to Mountain Biking. Many experts claim about a 5% increase in power transmitted to the bike. I would agree with that. The main advantage for me is I feel way more in control of the bike. I am connected to the bicycle at the hands and the feet until I decide to separate. Unexpected bumps, intentional jumps, washboard trail, and many other situations, my feet do not come off the pedals until I make the decision to Bail. Then my feet are instantly disconnected. Starting up a steep hill it is much easier to get into one pedal and then the other while you are pedaling than it is to get into the second toe clip if you are riding with toe clips.

How do I get into the Clipless Mountain Pedals? Most pedals you use a slightly toe down forward push on the pedal and then you put your weight on that foot and you will get a Click. You are in. Most people start by putting the same foot either right or left in the pedal first all the time. Then they start riding and slip the second one in.

How Do I get Out of Clipless Pedals? To release from clipless pedals you pivot your heels away from the bike. To learn this motion you can lean against a wall and click in, click out, click in, click out ,click in, click out. This can take a little bit of time to get used to. I recommend if you have a bike trainer to use trainer and work out with them for a while. Then before you go out in traffic practice in a park or somewhere with a soft landing place so if you fall you do not end up with road rash. If you do not have a trainer you can just put your bike in the living room and practice clicking in and out while watching TV. Most people get it down in a couple of days. Warning: If you have ridden toe clips for a long time and get used to clipless but try to go back to toe clips you will have to learn how to get out of toe clips all over again. And then relearn clipless.

What happens if I cannot get out? When you stop your bike You will fall. This can be very dangerous on steep trails and city streets.

Learn to use Mountain Bike Clipless Pedals Carefully I have been with several riders when they were learning to ride clipless. Most people learn quickly. I do not recommend going on an epic ride right after installing your new pedals. I have seen some painfully slow falls from riders not knowing how to get out.

Practice, Practice. My recommendation is to put your bike in front of the TV and practice getting in and out, over and over for an evening. If you have a trainer put your bike on it and get a workout while you are learning. Then stick to the easy trail---NO STEEP SIDE HILLS OR DOWN HILLS.

How Tight do I want my Clipless Pedals? Many pedals are adjustable as to the spring tension holding the cleat in the pedal. I believe for learning you should loosen the spring to the easiest setting. Only when you start to come out of the pedal accidentally should you tighten the springs. All of my pedals are set on the softest setting and I have been riding clipless since about 1991.

Who makes Clipless Pedals? There are Several manufacturers of Clipless Mountain pedals. Shimano was the first to build and promote them heavily. Many of the Mountain bike cleats are Shimano pedal compatible. The cleats will work in Shimano pedals. I always try to uses the cleats that came with the pedal I am using. Crank Brothers is another major manufacturer of pedals. The Crank Brothers cleats will only work on Crank Brothers Pedals.

Will I come out of my pedals when I crash? Usually if you have spent a bit of time getting used to Clipless you will react naturally and click out in a crash without even thinking about it.

Types of Mountain Bike Clipless Pedals. There are basically 3 types of clipless Mountain pedals.

Double sided pedals which will grip the cleat on either side.

Half and Half pedals with clipless on one side and what looks like a regular pedal on the other side.

Platform clipless pedals which grip the cleat in the middle of a large pedal.

I believe if you are going to ride clipless you need to at least learn to ride with double sided pedals. The half and half are ok for around town but if you do not get used to getting out of your clipless under stress you are headed for more falls.

Are Mountain Bike Clipless the same as Road Clipless Pedals? No Road pedals are normally one sided, the other side is minimized to increase the lean angle of the bike. This allows you to pedal as far as possible into the corner before your pedal hit’s the road.

Most Road cleats have a different screw mounting system. They do not mount to the same screws as the mountain cleats.

Mountain Bike Shoes have the cleat recessed into the sole so you can walk without walking on the cleat. Road shoes are much less comfortable to walk in and you walk on the cleat.

Unless you are a very serious Road Racer, Mountain bike shoes and pedals will work better than Road bike pedals and shoes. Many riders use one pair of shoes and get matching pedals for their road bike and mountain bike.

Types of Mountain Bike Clipless Shoes. There are two general types of mountain bike Clipless shoes. I classify them as Comfort shoes and Race Shoes.

Comfort shoes are usually designed to look like lightweight hiking shoes or cross training shoes and will have laces to hold your feet.

Race shoes will usually use 2, 3, or4 Velcro closures to hold your feet. All Clipless shoes will have stiff soles which make it uncomfortable to walk or stand all day but are good at converting your leg energy into pedal revolutions.

The Comfort shoes usually have a little bit more flexible sole than the race shoes. Many people want to use their shoes as both biking and hiking shoes. This does not work well. If the shoe performs even reasonably well on the bike, the sole will be way too stiff to work well hiking.

I normally recommend that Most Cyclists should buy Mountain Bike Race shoes. The recreational walking type of bike shoes still aren't good for walking in. The race shoes tend to be more durable and they give you more support while riding.

Road Shoes VS Mountain Bike Shoes Many companies make the same shoe for both Mountain and Road but they use a built up sole on their Mountain shoe.

Where do I mount the Cleats? Most Mountain shoes have 4 holes in the plate on the bottom of the shoe but most cleats only have 2 screws. This allows you to mount your cleats further forward or further back on the shoe. The plate will usually slide front to back and pivot to allow you to adjust your heel so it feels natural during the pedal stroke. Look at the position of your feet as you pedal on your old pedals and try to replicate that.

Do the cleats come with the Pedals or the Shoes? The Cleats come with the pedals and are pedal specific. Many cleats will work with the Shimano SPD pedals but I like to use the cleats that match the pedals that came with the pedals from the same manufacturer.

Rick Kern

Zbikenut GooglePages

More Bike Articles from Bicycle Hangar

Bicycle parts and installation Guides. Bike to live.

Mountain Bike (Trials Bike) Trickster - Danny Macaskill

A guy on his mountain bike (trials bike) jumping off of things, balancing, spinning around, etc.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYIKfEU8yl8&hl=en