Learn about the new GoPro HD HERO® camera at www.gopro.com. Take a ride with Brian Lopes down A-Line for the Air Downhill.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTqh0ju5Z2o&hl=en
GoPro HD HERO Camera: Crankworx Whistler - Brian Lopes Air Downhill Run Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Stop "Cardio" Training For Mountain Biking! Friday, December 24, 2010
Image : http://www.flickr.com
Let me ask you a question - Do you want better cardio? Or do you want to be able to ride harder, faster and longer on the trail? Think these two goals are the same thing? Perhaps not...
One of the toughest things I face when bringing new and improved training concepts to the mountain biking world is trying to work around the large amount of confusion that surround certain terms. For example, when you use the terms "aerobic training" and "cardio training" interchangeably then my call to avoid excessive aerobic training seems odd.
Once I explain that aerobic training is just a specific type of cardio training and there are other ways to work on your cardio then my suggestions make more sense. I've recently realized that it is time for me to take on two new terms that need clarification on their real meaning - cardio training and endurance training. In most people's books these two terms mean the same thing but once you understand the difference between them you'll start to see the impact it has on your training approach. Cardio training is any exercise that increases your heart rate, gets you breathing heavier and directly increases the strength of your cardiovascular system (heart, lungs, blood vessels). This type of training can consist of a variety of things, from short interval to long base mile workouts. Cardio training focuses specifically on improving your measurable markers of cardio capacity. While an important part of specific endurance training it is only part of the picture, though.
Endurance training refers specifically to any training that allows you to "endure" longer on the trail. In other words, any type of training that results in you riding harder, faster and longer on your bike is endurance training. Endurance is also very specific to what and how you ride - technical east coast cross country riding requires different specific endurance than bombing some SoCal downhill runs. As I've mentioned in my presentations of the MTB Performance Wheel, cardio training is only one of eight training components that affect your specific endurance on the trail. I also include Bike & Equipment Set up as a "spoke" on the MTB Performance Wheel but since it is not a true training component I am not including it on this list:
1. Strength
2. Power
3. Mobility
4. Cardio
5. Nutrition/ Supplements
6. Recovery
7. Mindset
8. Technical Skills
As you can see, mountain bike endurance training requires a much broader view of training than simply focusing on the cardio component. However, this is not the approach that mountain bikers have been taught. Because of the influence that road riding has had on our sport we have been told that working on cardio IS working on specific endurance and the other 7 training components are deemphasized or forgotten altogether.
This view that increased VO2Max or other markers of cardio endurance will automatically equal better specific endurance on the trail has had a very heavy influence on how mountain bikers in every discipline have approached training. From the advice given to newbies (if you want to get better then just ride your bike more) to the advice given to world champs (base miles are needed in the off season) it is readily apparent that the cardio training mindset has taken over our sport. Here is the problem with this approach, though - the fact is that there is much more to mountain bike specific endurance on the trail than cardio capacity. Let me give you two examples to illustrate my point...
First, consider what happened to Lance Armstrong when he ventured off his road bike. Lance is widely considered to be one of the greatest endurance athletes in history, boasting a VO2Max that is among the highest ever recorded. His domination of the Tour de France speaks to his otherworldly cardio capacity, yet when he trained for and ran a marathon he got beaten. He did not get beaten by one or two world class runners, either - he got beaten by a lot of "regular" people. If cardio capacity was the biggest determining factor in sport specific endurance then why didn't he do better?
Second, consider the opposite story of Mark Weir. Known around the world as one of the premier endurance riders in our sport Mark had his VO2Max tested and found out that it was rather ordinary. In fact, rumor has it he was told by the docs performing the test that based on his results he would never be a great endurance athlete. Instead of accepting it Mark went on with his dream and the rest is history. If cardio capacity is the biggest determining factor for mountain bike endurance then why is Mark able to excel despite his relatively low test results? The reason that Lance can't dominate every endurance sport he competes in and that Mark can kick the tails of riders with better "cardio" is because much more goes into mountain bike specific endurance than one over emphasized component. Your strength levels, technical skills, nutrition and everything else I listed above goes into it as well. The real trick to consistent returns on your training time is to identify the weakest of those eight training components and focus on it. While counterintuitive at times, the only way to strengthen a chain is to work on the weakest link - anything else will not result in a stronger chain.
The reason that it is important for us separate these terms is because it will have a major impact on your training paradigm. Remember that you do not want better cardio; you want to be able to ride faster, harder and longer on your bike. These are two different goals and need to be looked at as such. As long as your paradigm is influenced by the notion that unless you are emphasizing cardio training then you aren't working on your mountain bike specific endurance you will struggle to fully understand what it takes to be the best mountain bike rider you can.
The MTB Strength Training System is the world's only strength and conditioning program for the unique demands of mountain biking. Riders from around the world have discovered how they can climb faster, descend harder and have more fun by upgrading the engine that drives their bike - their own body!
Find out more about this unique program and how it can help you enjoy riding more by visiting http://www.mtbstrengthcoach.com While you are there you can find out how to sign up for a free sneak peak at The Ultimate MTB Workout Program, complete with a free workout.
Posted by Gieyman at 1:00 AM 0 comments
Labels: Biking, Mountain, quotCardioquot, Training
How To Apply Basic BMX Skills : How to Jump a BMX Bike Ramp Thursday, December 23, 2010
Watch this free instructional video clip and learn some tips as an expert bunny hops to a jump on his bike by applying basic BMX bike riding skills. Expert: Garson Fields Bio: Garson Fields is 20 years old. He has been riding BMX and mountain bikes for seven years. Garson is an avid BMX rider. He has taught others various tricks and techniques as well. Filmmaker: Christian Munoz-Donoso
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pir3_OJRtq0&hl=en
Posted by Gieyman at 10:48 PM 0 comments
Labels: Skills
Cannondale Mountain Bikes For Men Saturday, December 18, 2010
Image : http://www.flickr.com
Mountain bikes nowadays have been in widely used. Likewise, it is said to be perfect for exercising the leg and other parts of the body. Moreover, biking is considered also as one of the recreational sports, which enjoyed increasing its popularity in 1990s. It was developed from the rugged old bicycles ridden by a small group of off-road riders on the steep, rocky hillsides. In addition, there are many categories under mountain bikes; each with its own purposes and use. There are also bikes that are used for touring and for daily travel in cities where riders value robustness and maneuverability. Likewise, for men, a Cannondale Bike might be a perfect choice for you. This is long lasting for it was built with lifelong and durable frames.
But, in buying a bike, it is very important to know and identify the credibility of the store that you are planning to make a purchase. But, make it sure that it offers a great warranty and be strict in making your options regarding your purchase. Check every part if it will function well enough and that warranty must be ensured. One great example when we speak about durability is the Cannondale Mountain Bike. Moreover, ensure that the product that is delivered to you is in great quality just as what the stores promised they are. A purchase of Cannondale Bike enables you to get along with your bike for years plus you can have free items and equipments that are needed for your bicycle.
Cannondale Mountain Bike would be a perfect choice too for it is safe to use. Safety is assured even though men would be the one to use it. If you are a good mountaineer you would know that your strength and safety relies on your bicycle. Do not risk your life and directly decide for an ideal purchase.
The Author is an expert in article writing and has done a lot of research online and offline. Come visit his latest websites on Mens Mountain Bikes and Cheap Mountain Bikes
Posted by Gieyman at 12:24 PM 0 comments
Labels: Cannondale, Mountain
Tips For Buying a Mountain Bike Sunday, December 12, 2010
Purchasing a bike can sometimes be quite a daunting experience. With thousands of different types, sizes, frames and uses, it can sometimes be difficult to decipher which one is best for you.
The first bike you purchase will not be a permanent bike, so you need to keep this in mind when looking to buy. Treat the first purchase as a trial to discover which type of cycling you prefer, and then once you have decided while style of riding you prefer, you can select and invest in a more specialized bike. Beginner cyclists tend to opt for the dual use bike, suitable for both on and off-road cycling allowing you to experience both types of terrain.
Mountain bikes generally boast strong, lightweight frames, specialized brakes, robust tires and numerous gears, making them suitable for rougher terrain and mountainous land. Within the mountain bike category, there are several options to choose from. These include; the cross country, jump or slalom, downhill and trial bikes. These all differ from comfort, touring and cruiser bikes due to the fact these are built primarily for recreational use, comfort and not durability.
The majority of mountain bikes have 26" wheels and up to 27 gears, depending on which type you decide upon. The most popular mountain bike would be in the XC or cross-country range. This is due to its versatility on different terrain and their suitability for beginner cyclists who require a multi-purpose bike. Trail and downhill bikes are only really suited to expert cyclists due to their highly specialized components. Trial riding itself can be very difficult and requires well developed skills and precision, therefore only the more experienced riders should attempt this. Jump and slalom bikes can also be good dual purpose due to their strong frame and suspension, allowing for a comfortable ride across tougher terrain.
The most experienced cyclists tend to purchase components rather than a factory built bike as they require specific specifications to suit their personal needs which may not otherwise be catered for. The best advice for a beginner cyclist would be to purchase the best bike you can afford at the time. This is due to the fact that when you progress, you may require higher spec parts which can get costly when purchasing separately.
The cost of a mountain bike can vary enormously due to the vast range of brands, quality of features and specifications. Popular brands include Cannondale due to their exceptional high performance bikes. Cannondale bikes are one of the World's leading specialist in the especially within the high-end market due to their outstanding high quality components and vast range of products. These ranges include Cannondale flash and Cannondale bad boy claimed to be the best carbon-fibre bikes in the industry.
About Primera: We are often described as the leading UK bike specialist on the South coast. Catering to all disciplines of cycling, we offer products both off and online, with our range of Cannondale bikes and equipment being one of the best in the UK market.
Posted by Gieyman at 10:00 AM 0 comments
MENS BICYCLE 26" Cheetah 7-SPEED Beach Cruiser Tuesday, November 23, 2010
MENS BICYCLE 26" Cheetah 7-SPEED Beach Cruiser Review
MENS BICYCLE 26" Cheetah 7-SPEED Beach Cruiser Feature
- MICARGI 26" CRUISER HI-TENSILE STEEL Frame
- RETRO ALLOY CRUISER HANDLE-BAR
- Safe Recreational Outdoors Bike
- After ordering a rep. will call you with available bike colors
- COLORS: Blue, FlintGrey, MattBlack
MENS BICYCLE 26" Cheetah 7-SPEED Beach Cruiser Overview
CHEETAH 7SP MENS 26" Chopper Beach Cruiser Rear Suspension FRAME: MICARGI 26"CRUISER HI-TENSILE STEELSIZES: 18" FORK:HI-TEN STEELDERAILLEUR:SHIMANO TX31 SHIFTERS:SHIMANO RS35 CRANKSET: ONE PIECE ALLOY CHAINRINGS 44T FREEWHEEL:SPROCKET 18T CHAINS:HEAVY DUTY BROWN BRAKES:ALLOY V-BRAKE SILVER HANDLEBARS: RETRO CRUISER BAR ALLOY STEM: ALLOY TALL COOL SEAT POST: ALLOY HUBS: ALLOY 36H SPOKES STAINLESS STEEL 14G RIMS: ALLOY COLOR 26" X 1.75" 36HTIRES:26"*2.125 WHITE WALL COLORS: Blue, FlintGrey, MattBlack
Available at Amazon Check Price Now!
*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Nov 23, 2010 05:24:07
Navigating Your Mountain Bike Uphill Monday, November 15, 2010
Image : http://www.flickr.com
Mountain biking is a very challenging activity, and it requires more than courage to bike into steep hill and face the challenge. Believe it or not, mountain biking requires good skills. If you want to learn to navigate your bike through uphill trails, follow these steps before you take on the challenge.
1st step
Train on regular ascents before you go into a steep climb. Shift into lower gears; find out which lower gear you're comfortable with on various slopes.
2nd step
For you to not get too overwhelmed by the miles ahead you should analyze your climb into several sections in your mind.
3rd step
When you pedal your bike up always lean forward and keep your bike strait. To help maintain traction, put the pressure on your front wheel leaning on your handlebars.
4th step
When you feel your front wheel is lifting off the ground, lean more on your handlebars. Very steep climbs can really make you lift your front wheels when you don't put enough pressure on it.
5th step
Pedal harder. Hunch over your handlebar and keep your weight into both wheels for steep pitches.
6th step
Avoid locking your joints and keep your arms and legs flexed.
7th step
Rest some of your muscles and exercise other muscles of your body by standing while pedaling during longer climbs.
8th step
Raise yourself into a standing position as you pedal and switch into a higher gear.
9th step
When you're standing while pedaling, keep your weight centered above your pedals and press down on your handlebar.
Further tips
Always warm-up before heading to an ascent, this will help your body adjust to a harder activity. Just keep pedaling if you feel like giving up after 15 minutes of biking uphill, this will help you gain momentum.
Most heavy cyclists pedal more efficiently when they stay down, standing up on the pedal is simple for lighter cyclists.
To prepare for long uphill biking, you should equip your body with enough fluid by drinking a lot of water and eating high-energy foods. A good climb begins 1 to 2 hours before hitting the trail. To keep your energy up for an uphill biking that lasts more than an hour you should bring sports bar or gel with you.
Standing requires more energy, so use it wisely.
Always wear your helmet.
For more information on Mens Mountain Bikes, please visit http://www.MensMountainBikesReview.com/ which is an educational website devoted to helping people understand how to make a good selection on mountain bike equipment.
Posted by Gieyman at 11:00 PM 0 comments
Labels: Mountain, Navigating, Uphill
Geax Lobo Loco TNT Folding Mountain Bike Tire Sunday, November 7, 2010
Geax Lobo Loco TNT Folding Mountain Bike Tire Review
Geax Lobo Loco TNT Folding Mountain Bike Tire Feature
- Size: 26 x 2.3
- Color: Black
- Bead: Foldable
- Weight: 650 g
- Tube or No Tube
Geax Lobo Loco TNT Folding Mountain Bike Tire Overview
A free-ride tyre with exclusive characteristics: the new "Cross Bones" tread pattern ribbing for better casing impact resistance and knob rigidity. ultra-aggressive central knobs with grooved surface for micro-traction effect. "Rails Design" side knobs, guaranteeing great reliability and stability when cornering. "Sticky Soft" compound (55 Shore A) for perfect grip on slippery surfaces and longlasting performance. "Tuned Spring Rate HEAVY DUTY" casing free-ride specific. The brand-new 2.10 size is ideal for hard pack and loose ground. Lobo loco has been designed in this new version thinking about bikers who love earning their down-hill through riding uphill, till the very top.
Available at Amazon Check Price Now!
*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Nov 07, 2010 14:48:05
Posted by Gieyman at 12:48 PM 0 comments
Full Suspension Mountain Bike Frame - Useful Shopping Tips Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Image : http://www.flickr.com
You want the perfect piece of equipment that can make your mountain biking experience even more thrilling and rewarding. As even novices know the frame is the most important component of every bike, so it has to be the best quality. Thus, the obvious choice would be a full suspension mountain bike frame.
This superior piece of equipment provides the bicycle with a reliable rear suspension securely integrated into its structure along with the standard front fork suspension that all models have. The mountain bike frame with such a feature will allow you to literally fly to new limits. The downhill speed of the bike is greater plus all the shock from bumps and ditches is absorbed by it so you have a better control and greater maneuverability.
Still, there are some disadvantages to the superb full suspension frame the main one of which is the high price. There are a number of ways to deal with this issue. The first way is not to buy such the equipment at all - novices with little experience do not need to go for higher speeds primarily for security reasons. Those who love mountain biking and want to experience the adrenalin to the fullest have to look for a full suspension mountain bike frame made from less expensive materials. The steel and aluminum mountain bike frames are less expensive although the former is quite heavy. The main disadvantage of the two is that they are less durable and are prone to rusting, but with a little extra care and maintenance the latter problem can be solved.
Those who want to opt for the most expensive full suspension mountain bike models can also save some if they shop during the off-season for biking, which is during fall and winter. You can be certain to find a carbon fiber or a titanium bicycle frame at a discount. I would suggest first searching online at places like amazon, walmart and smaller online retailers for the best prices. What ever you choose, make sure it is the right frame for your particular preference.
Ashton Dixon
Mountain Bike Frame
Posted by Gieyman at 8:00 PM 0 comments
Labels: Mountain, Shopping, Suspension, Useful
BMX and MTB easy, and fast learn tricks! Monday, October 25, 2010
Some trick that are easy to learn, just for BMX or MTB..PLEACE SUBSCRIBE, COMMENT, AND ADD ME AS FRIEND! SO YOU CAN KNOW WHEN I ADD MORE VIDEOS!! PLZ!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER58KwbvsJ8&hl=en
Posted by Gieyman at 11:48 PM 0 comments
Labels: tricks
Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Saturday, October 23, 2010
Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Review
I ride light freeride (so far no bigger than 4 ft drops) so I climb to the top and then ride to the bottom, rinse and repeat. This bike does it for me. I threw a shorter stem on mine and I use less than recommended sag, put a chain guide and bash guard on it, and it handles everything the local trails have to offer. I also did some lift access at a nearby resort. It handled it beautifully. I also ride xc with a local group sometimes, riding 15 miles or more and it is an alright performer in that department. If I was riding more xc I'd put my old stem back on and start buying lighter parts to swap out (wheels and tires), or I'd just shop for a 29er.
If you want to ride a bit more aggressively I would recommend a longer travel fork with the 35-36mm stanchions.
Also the rear hub is not impressive stock. Expect it to last through no more than 1.5 seasons of light freeride use intact. It develops play quickly which you can correct with a pair of cone wrenches but I'd rather not have to do that once a week so I swapped it out after only a month for that reason.
For the cost it is a wonderful bike that is part of diamondback's big comeback. The 2010 frame is stiff and strong. The stock suspension is worth half of the bike's price alone.
Buy and love it.
Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Feature
- Men's full-suspension mountain bike with 6-inch all-mountain aluminum frame
- Knuckle Box suspension system makes bike feel lighter, smoother, and more maneuverable
- Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic brakes; 32H Sun Equalizer rims
- SRAM X-7 9-speed trigger shifter; WTB Prowler MX/Stout 2.3 tires
- Comes in 15.5-, 17-, 19-, and 21-inch sizes; WTB Pure V Sport saddle
Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Overview
The Mission 2 is built up using the same revolutionary 6” all-mountain frame and many of the parts found on the top of the line Mission 3. No single ring / two speed transmission, but the Mission 2 is a very nice bike.
Diamondback Mission 2 All Mountain Full Suspension Mountain Bike (26-Inch Wheels) Specifications
Since its introduction in 2007, the all-mountain Diamondback Mission has become the hands-down favorite of some of the most discriminating riders in the world. The Mission put the "all" in "all-mountain" and the "mountain" back in "mountain bike," leaving riders to wonder where they couldn't ride it. Diamondback continued to refine the Mission design in 2009 with the release of the Mission 2, which is built up using the same revolutionary 6-inch all-mountain frame found on its two siblings (the Mission 1 and 3), but offers several upgrades over the Mission 1. The Mission 2 includes such improvements as a Fox Float R 150mm Air fork with a 15mm thru axle, SRAM X.7 trigger shifters, and Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic disc brakes. Other features include a Knuckle Box rear suspension, a Truvativ Fire-X crankset, Sun Equalizer double-wall disc rims, WTB Prowler MX/Stout folding tires, and a WTB Pure V Sport saddle.
Knuckle Box Suspension System
All the scientific reasoning and engineering jargon in the world won't help you understand how the Knuckle Box suspension system performs. To truly appreciate how the system works, you really need to ride one. However, all bikes with Knuckle Box systems do share some common traits. The first is an optimized wheel rate, the parameter that defines what the suspension will feel like when riding. The Knuckle Box is shaped in such a way that the wheel rate starts off linear and finishes slightly progressive. This results in great small bump compliance, more perceived travel, and great bottom-out protection. Riders will also enjoy an optimized axle path--the parameter that defines your pedal feedback. By manipulating the pivot locations of the Knuckle Box system, Diamondback has come up with a design that produces very low chain-growth values, so you barely feel any pedal feedback at all. Finally, the Knuckle Box offers a low center of gravity. With most of the mass concentrated low in the frame, the bike feels lighter and more balanced, and maneuvers better than other mountain bikes.
The Mission 2's Knuckle Box suspension system helps the bike feel light, smooth, and maneuverable. |
- Sizes: Small (15.5 inches), medium (17 inches), large (19 inches), and extra-large (21 inches)
- Frame: Mission all-mountain 6-inch aluminum with hooded hydroformed top tube, butted/formed down tube/seatstays, under-arch seatstay bridge, Knuckle Box technology, ISCG, Hammerschmidt readyÿ
- Fork: Fox Float R Air, 150mm travel, open bath, with exterior rebound adjust , butted alloy steerer, 32mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, with 15mm thru axleÿ
- Rear shock: Fox Float RP2 200 x 51mm Air with rebound adjust 2
- Cranks: Truvativ Fire X Giga X Pipe with AL-7075 aluminum outer ring, 22/32/44t ÿ
- Bottom bracket: Truvativ Giga X Pipe outboard sealed cartridge
- Front derailleur: Shimano Deore dual pull, top swing
- Rear derailleur: SRAM X-9
- Shifter: SRAM X-7 9-speed trigger
- Brake levers: Hayes Stroker Trail with reach adjust
- Brakes: Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic V7" (front), V6" (rear) rotors
- Gear: SRAM PG-950 9-speed cassette (11-34t)
- Rims: 32H Sun Equalizer with eyelets
- Tires: WTB Prowler MX 2.3 (front), Stout 2.3 (rear), folding
- Pedals: DB Sound alloy with molded traction pins
- Handlebar: Easton EA50 MidRise, 31.8mm
- Stem: Easton EA50, 31.8mm
- Seatpost: Easton EA50 double-bolt clamp, 30.9mm
- Seat: WTB Pure V Sport
- Headset: Zero Stack 1-1/8 inch ACB with deep alloy cups
- Chain: Zero Stack 1-1/8 inch ACB with deep alloy cups
- Hubset: 32H Neau Naim alloy sealed bearing disc with 15mm thru axle (front), 32H alloy disc cassette with CNC disc mountÿ(rear)
- Spokes: Black 14g stainless steel
- Grips: DB Brics 130mm, D2 Kraton
- Extras: DB key chain, Chainstay protector, water bottle mounts, clear coat, owner's manual
| Mission 2 Bike Geometry | ||||
| Size | Small | Medium | Large | Extra-large |
| Seat tube length | 15.5 inches | 17 inches | 19 inches | 21 inches |
| Standover height | 29 inches | 29.5 inches | 29.5 inches | 30 inches |
| Top tube length | 22 inches | 23 inches | 24 inches | 25 inches |
| Head tube length | 120mm | 130mm | 145mm | 145mm |
| Head angle | 68 degrees | 68 degrees | 68 degrees | 68 degrees |
| Seat angle | 72 degrees | 72 degrees | 72 degrees | 72 degrees |
| Wheel base | 1,087mm | 1,109mm | 1,140mm | 1,172mm |
| Chainstay length | 440mm | 440mm | 440mm | 440mm |
| Fork offset | 42mm | 42mm | 42mm | 42mm |
| BB height | 348mm | 348mm | 348mm | 348mm |
| Stem length | 90mm | 90mm | 100mm | 100mm |
| Handlebar width | 680mm | 680mm | 680mm | 680mm |
| Crank length | 170mm | 175mm | 175mm | 175mm |
| Seat post length | 300mm | 300mm | 300mm | 300mm |
Available at Amazon Check Price Now!
*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Oct 23, 2010 08:24:05
Posted by Gieyman at 6:24 AM 0 comments
Labels: 26Inch, Diamondback, Mission, Mountain, Suspension, Wheels
Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Friday, October 8, 2010
Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Review
I got this bike back in early winter. The "manual" that comes with it is nearly useless and contains little, if any model-specific info. Some assembly is required (front wheel, handlebars, pedals) so if you are not comfortable doing mechanical work on bicycles call a friend who is, or take it to a neighborhood bicycle shop. The linear-pull brakes will also need some adjustment.
I assembled the bike and waited for warmer weather. Spring brought riding weather and out I went. Nice ride. No, it's not a 00. mountain bike, but if you don't need cutting edge stuff you'll be just as happy as the guy on the 00. bike. This is a very good value for the price. Previously I only had 10-speed racers but always wanted to try a mountain bike. After 15 years without a bicycle ride (yeah, I'm kinda old, switched to motorcycles for a dozen years or so) I took the plunge with this model. I am 5ft-9in tall and this bike fits me just fine. It's not as light as the more expensive bikes but it's not too heavy either (frame is aluminum). The swing-arm pivot joint is suspiciously large, perhaps to overcome a design weakness, but reassuringly strong-looking. At first I thought I would need a more comfortable seat but tilting it one click forward and raising it a bit did the trick. I can live with it for now. Adjust the seat post so that your knee is almost (but not quite) straight when the pedal is at the bottom of your stroke and the seat should be OK. I still may try a more comfy seat, some day.
The wheels on my bike were not quite true, and the linear-pull brakes wanted more advanced tweaking than I was comfortable doing (the return springs needed to be hand-bent for more tension), so I took mine to the local bicycle shop. Spokes were tensioned, wheels trued (tuned to spin perfectly straight, no wobble), and he adjusted the brakes to near perfection while giving the whole thing the once-over. . well spent.
On the road I was smiling. The suspension works pretty well and the bike shifts very nicely with no additional adjustments needed. Twist-click-shift. Brakes are more than adequate when properly adjusted. On pavement the knobby tires will sing to you at full speed and talk to you at slower speeds. If you go off road the knobbies will be welcome but if you ride only on pavement you might be happier with smoother tread tires.
I am delighted with the ability to go off-road and ride over most terrain, it's a blast. And I can now laugh at curbs, potholes, and pebbles that used to make me tremble with fear when riding a 10-speed racer with its skinny, vulnerable tires. I never dreamed of riding a 10-speed racer in the woods but now I look for trails to ride on off road, and this bike handles that just fine.
The poor manual is no biggie really. Even a good one would not help much more, really, since even a good one wouldn't cover everything in detail. Bikes are pretty generic in nature. If you want to do your own maintenance then buy a bicycle book with diagrams in it. A chain is a chain, and there are only a few different types of brakes and shifters. The book will show you how to do everything, but still have an expert tune your wheels for you. It probably will only have to be done once so why bother learning how?
If you want a mountain bike, but do not want the cheap kind (kid's bike, one-piece crank, cheap brakes) or the high-end (read: really expensive) kind, I can recommend this Kent Trail Machine model. I like mine a lot.
Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Feature
- Mountain bike with all aluminum slingshot frame
- Equipped with both front and rear suspension for a smooth ride
- Features 21-speed Shimano gearing
- Alloy quick release seat pin for fit adjustments
- All alloy V brakes, rims, and A stem head
Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Overview
Mens Trail Machine 26" 21 speed Shimano bike ~ For any service questions contact Kent at 1-800-451-KENT (5368) EST., for replacement parts, repair kits, tools and warranty information, (or) www.services@kentbicycles.com
Kent Trail Machine Men's Dual Suspension Mountain Bike Specifications
Built for trail riding, the Kent 26-inch Trail Machine mountain bike combines high-performance features with an affordable price. The Trail Machine is equipped with a full-suspension aluminum slingshot frame, with individual front and rear suspension systems that absorb shock and create a smooth ride regardless of the terrain. The bike also shifts smoothly from low to high thanks to the 21-speed twist shifters and the Shimano rear derailleur. Other features include alloy V-brakes, an alloy quick-release seat pin for easy adjustments, 36-hold alloy rims, and a stem head.
About Kent Bicycles
A family owned company, Kent Bicycles dates back to the early 1900s, when the current president's grandfather immigrated to the U.S. and got a job working for the owner of a bike shop in New York. In 1909, he opened his own bike shop on the Lower East Side. This small bike shop led to a larger store in New Jersey, where his son developed his own passion for the business. In 1947, the son was inspired to start his own company, Philkam Cycle, supplying bikes and parts to stores all over the eastern United States. In 1958, the company changed its name to Kent International and has been supplying Kent products to fun-loving parents and their children ever since.
Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide
Finding the Right Bike
To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:
The Right Ride
In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:
- Road and Racing Bikes: As a general rule, road and racing bikes are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels, and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain.
- Mountain Bikes: With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing, and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine.
- Comfort/Cruiser Bikes: For tooling around on bike paths or light trails or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family.
The Right Price
A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.
- Entry level: You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use.
- Mid-range: Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the sweet spot. Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension.
- High end: Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action.
The Right Size
Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:
- Stand-over Height: To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want 3 to 5 inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between 1 and 1 inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have 2 to 4 inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height.
- Top Tube Length: You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract 6 inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about 2 inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit.
- Bikes for Women: Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube. Many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance.
The Right Accessories
When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:
- Helmet (this is a must!)
- Seat pack
- Lock
- Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages
- Spare tubes
- Portable bike pump
- Gloves
Available at Amazon Check Price Now!
*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Oct 08, 2010 23:00:21
Posted by Gieyman at 9:00 PM 0 comments
Labels: Machine, Mountain, Suspension
Mountain Bike Clipless Tips
Why ride clipless Mountain pedals? Clipless pedals I believe are one of the greatest additions to Mountain Biking. Many experts claim about a 5% increase in power transmitted to the bike. I would agree with that. The main advantage for me is I feel way more in control of the bike. I am connected to the bicycle at the hands and the feet until I decide to separate. Unexpected bumps, intentional jumps, washboard trail, and many other situations, my feet do not come off the pedals until I make the decision to Bail. Then my feet are instantly disconnected. Starting up a steep hill it is much easier to get into one pedal and then the other while you are pedaling than it is to get into the second toe clip if you are riding with toe clips.
How do I get into the Clipless Mountain Pedals? Most pedals you use a slightly toe down forward push on the pedal and then you put your weight on that foot and you will get a Click. You are in. Most people start by putting the same foot either right or left in the pedal first all the time. Then they start riding and slip the second one in.
How Do I get Out of Clipless Pedals? To release from clipless pedals you pivot your heels away from the bike. To learn this motion you can lean against a wall and click in, click out, click in, click out ,click in, click out. This can take a little bit of time to get used to. I recommend if you have a bike trainer to use trainer and work out with them for a while. Then before you go out in traffic practice in a park or somewhere with a soft landing place so if you fall you do not end up with road rash. If you do not have a trainer you can just put your bike in the living room and practice clicking in and out while watching TV. Most people get it down in a couple of days. Warning: If you have ridden toe clips for a long time and get used to clipless but try to go back to toe clips you will have to learn how to get out of toe clips all over again. And then relearn clipless.
What happens if I cannot get out? When you stop your bike You will fall. This can be very dangerous on steep trails and city streets.
Learn to use Mountain Bike Clipless Pedals Carefully I have been with several riders when they were learning to ride clipless. Most people learn quickly. I do not recommend going on an epic ride right after installing your new pedals. I have seen some painfully slow falls from riders not knowing how to get out.
Practice, Practice. My recommendation is to put your bike in front of the TV and practice getting in and out, over and over for an evening. If you have a trainer put your bike on it and get a workout while you are learning. Then stick to the easy trail---NO STEEP SIDE HILLS OR DOWN HILLS.
How Tight do I want my Clipless Pedals? Many pedals are adjustable as to the spring tension holding the cleat in the pedal. I believe for learning you should loosen the spring to the easiest setting. Only when you start to come out of the pedal accidentally should you tighten the springs. All of my pedals are set on the softest setting and I have been riding clipless since about 1991.
Who makes Clipless Pedals? There are Several manufacturers of Clipless Mountain pedals. Shimano was the first to build and promote them heavily. Many of the Mountain bike cleats are Shimano pedal compatible. The cleats will work in Shimano pedals. I always try to uses the cleats that came with the pedal I am using. Crank Brothers is another major manufacturer of pedals. The Crank Brothers cleats will only work on Crank Brothers Pedals.
Will I come out of my pedals when I crash? Usually if you have spent a bit of time getting used to Clipless you will react naturally and click out in a crash without even thinking about it.
Types of Mountain Bike Clipless Pedals. There are basically 3 types of clipless Mountain pedals.
Double sided pedals which will grip the cleat on either side.
Half and Half pedals with clipless on one side and what looks like a regular pedal on the other side.
Platform clipless pedals which grip the cleat in the middle of a large pedal.
I believe if you are going to ride clipless you need to at least learn to ride with double sided pedals. The half and half are ok for around town but if you do not get used to getting out of your clipless under stress you are headed for more falls.
Are Mountain Bike Clipless the same as Road Clipless Pedals? No Road pedals are normally one sided, the other side is minimized to increase the lean angle of the bike. This allows you to pedal as far as possible into the corner before your pedal hit’s the road.
Most Road cleats have a different screw mounting system. They do not mount to the same screws as the mountain cleats.
Mountain Bike Shoes have the cleat recessed into the sole so you can walk without walking on the cleat. Road shoes are much less comfortable to walk in and you walk on the cleat.
Unless you are a very serious Road Racer, Mountain bike shoes and pedals will work better than Road bike pedals and shoes. Many riders use one pair of shoes and get matching pedals for their road bike and mountain bike.
Types of Mountain Bike Clipless Shoes. There are two general types of mountain bike Clipless shoes. I classify them as Comfort shoes and Race Shoes.
Comfort shoes are usually designed to look like lightweight hiking shoes or cross training shoes and will have laces to hold your feet.
Race shoes will usually use 2, 3, or4 Velcro closures to hold your feet. All Clipless shoes will have stiff soles which make it uncomfortable to walk or stand all day but are good at converting your leg energy into pedal revolutions.
The Comfort shoes usually have a little bit more flexible sole than the race shoes. Many people want to use their shoes as both biking and hiking shoes. This does not work well. If the shoe performs even reasonably well on the bike, the sole will be way too stiff to work well hiking.
I normally recommend that Most Cyclists should buy Mountain Bike Race shoes. The recreational walking type of bike shoes still aren't good for walking in. The race shoes tend to be more durable and they give you more support while riding.
Road Shoes VS Mountain Bike Shoes Many companies make the same shoe for both Mountain and Road but they use a built up sole on their Mountain shoe.
Where do I mount the Cleats? Most Mountain shoes have 4 holes in the plate on the bottom of the shoe but most cleats only have 2 screws. This allows you to mount your cleats further forward or further back on the shoe. The plate will usually slide front to back and pivot to allow you to adjust your heel so it feels natural during the pedal stroke. Look at the position of your feet as you pedal on your old pedals and try to replicate that.
Do the cleats come with the Pedals or the Shoes? The Cleats come with the pedals and are pedal specific. Many cleats will work with the Shimano SPD pedals but I like to use the cleats that match the pedals that came with the pedals from the same manufacturer.
Rick Kern
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Posted by Gieyman at 8:57 PM 0 comments
Mountain Bike (Trials Bike) Trickster - Danny Macaskill
A guy on his mountain bike (trials bike) jumping off of things, balancing, spinning around, etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYIKfEU8yl8&hl=en